Rodney Muirhead, of LOW BBQ fame, is back. You better believe it. In this tiny storefront next to a taqueria, a subtle, unpretentious and sometimes chilly dining room awaits. So, okay, wear long underwear. Or get your meal to go. It should be fixed soon, if not already.

The menu, these days, is pretty simple. Openers include their wedge salad and Texas style chili. The wedge is just that: a wedge of iceberg lettuce dressed in homemade bleu cheese dressing and scallions. Simple and so very delicious. The chili reminds me most of red pozole, made without hominy, and with lots of brisket. Delicious, and very spicy. My one complaint is that it comes in a very small cup.

The entrees are what you might expect: brisket, pork ribs, beef sausage, pulled pork, and more, with two sides. The sides are cornbread, coleslaw, beans, and potato salad.

The meats, for the most part, are exquisite. Okay, so the sausage is not as good as you'd hope, but the brisket and pulled pork are really scrumptious, with a little bark and very tender. The sides are a work in progress: on two different visits, we had different styles of cornbread and beans, so maybe I shouldn't comment on them? The initial beans were borracho style, in a decious meaty broth, and the second time, they were more like baked beans.

Lunch has some sandwiches: whatever meats were smoked the day before: probably pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey, plus ribs and the wedge salad. For $8, you can get a sandwich, a side, and a pop.

The lunch—well, there's nothing not to love. The sandwiches are piled high with slow roasted meats, and they come plain, with a side of pickled carrots, jalapenos and onions, and another side of sauce. And they are really good enough to eat without sauce.

You can wash all of this down with some pop, some fancy soda, or beer. They do have some on tap. And follow up with some pecan pie.

So... great BBQ or greatest BBQ? Arguably, the sides are better at Ken's Place-LOW BBQ. The issue of meat is going to require some investigation. But of places that serve BBQ more than one night a week, Podnahs is above and beyond anybody else in town.